It's the question we hear more than any other in the shop: "I'm making a hoodie — should I use French terry or fleece?" Both are knit, both are cozy, both look similar from the outside. But underneath, they're built differently, and that difference changes how your finished garment looks, drapes, and feels on the body.
Here's how to pick the right one.
The Core Difference: Construction
French terry and fleece are siblings — both start as a knit with extra yarn floated on the back. What happens to that back side is what separates them.
French terry has loops on the inside
Flip a French terry sweatshirt inside out and you'll see hundreds of tiny, uncut yarn loops. The face (outside) is smooth, the back is looped. Those loops trap a little air for warmth, but the fabric stays relatively thin and breathable.
Fleece is brushed
Fleece starts essentially the same way as French terry — then those back loops get cut and brushed. The result is a soft, fuzzy, lofty surface that traps a lot more air. Warmer, plusher, and noticeably thicker.
That single processing step — brush or don't brush — is the whole story.
How They Look and Feel on the Body
French terry has a cleaner, more structured drape. It's the fabric you see on high-end loopback sweatshirts and elevated streetwear. Because there's no brushing, the surface stays smooth and the garment holds its shape over time without pilling on the inside.
Fleece feels like a hug. The brushed interior is what people associate with classic hoodie comfort — the soft, almost teddy-bear texture against the skin. It's warmer and more casual.
If you want a hoodie that looks polished enough to wear out to dinner, lean French terry. If you want maximum cozy for the couch or a cold practice field, lean fleece.
Weight Considerations
Both fabrics live in the medium-to-heavy GSM range, but their use cases shift with weight.
| Fabric | Light (240–300 GSM) | Mid (300–380 GSM) | Heavy (380–450+ GSM) |
|---|---|---|---|
| French terry | Spring crewnecks, joggers | Year-round hoodies | Premium streetwear, structured pullovers |
| Fleece | Layering hoodies | Classic sweatshirts | Outerwear, blankets, cold-weather pieces |
For most hoodies, 320–400 GSM is the sweet spot in either fabric. Lighter than 280 and you'll wish you'd gone heavier. Heavier than 450 and you're sewing through something that behaves more like outerwear.
When to Pick French Terry
Choose French terry when you want:
- A cleaner, more tailored look
- Better drape and a smoother silhouette
- Year-round wearability (it breathes better than fleece)
- A garment that pairs well with elevated outfits
- Less bulk under jackets
Our heavy cotton French terry knit, 450 GSM / 22 oz is what we point people to when they want that premium, weighty-but-not-puffy hoodie feel. It comes with matching jersey and rib, which makes hood linings and cuffs painless.
When to Pick Fleece
Choose fleece when you want:
- Maximum warmth
- That classic fuzzy-inside sweatshirt feel
- A more relaxed, casual aesthetic
- Outerwear-style layers or pieces for cold climates
- A forgiving fabric for kids' clothes and pajamas
Fleece is also the friendlier choice if you're new to sewing knits. The lofted back hides minor seam imperfections better than the clean loop face of terry.
Sewing Tips for Both
A few practical notes from our cutting room:
- Use a ballpoint or stretch needle — sharps will skip stitches on knit loops.
- Walking foot helps with heavy weights to keep layers from shifting.
- Pre-wash everything, especially cotton-heavy blends. These fabrics can shrink 3–7% on first wash.
- Cuffs and waistbands look best in matching ribbing rather than self-fabric — it gives the garment a professional finish.
So, Which One?
If you can't decide: French terry is the more versatile pick for most adult hoodies in 2025. It looks more refined, breathes better in mild weather, and the heavyweight versions feel substantial without overheating. Save fleece for genuinely cold-weather pieces, kids' clothes, and anything where coziness beats polish.
Shop the Fabrics Mentioned
- French terry and cotton fleece collection — full range from 240 to 450 GSM
- Heavy cotton French terry, 450 GSM — our flagship hoodie fabric
Whichever you pick, the right weight matters more than the label. Get a swatch, drape it over your hand, and trust your eye.