French terry and fleece can both make a great hoodie, but they answer different design briefs. Start with the finished garment: do you want a looped interior and a cleaner, less lofty feel, or a brushed interior that feels more plush? Then compare the actual fabric listing for weight, composition, width, stretch, color, and available companion trim.
The category name is a useful starting point, not a complete specification. Two French terries can feel very different, and the same is true of fleece. The most dependable route is to use this short decision process before committing to a cut or a production quote.
Start with the inside of the hoodie
French terry: a looped reverse
French terry is commonly recognized by a smooth face and loops on the reverse. It is a natural choice when the reverse texture is part of the look or when you want a sweatshirt knit that does not have a brushed interior. For a current heavyweight example, KBM’s Heavy French Terry, 22 oz is listed as 100% cotton, loopback French terry, 60 inches wide, and 450 GSM (approximately 22 oz per linear yard). It also identifies matching rib and jersey trim as separate options.
Fleece: a brushed reverse
Fleece is often selected when the goal is a softer, brushed interior. That can be a better direction for a hoodie where the inside hand is the priority. It does not mean every fleece has the same warmth, thickness, or stretch. Review the individual listing before deciding, especially if you are comparing cotton and blended options.
A practical hoodie decision table
| Start with this goal | Useful first direction | What to confirm on the actual fabric |
|---|---|---|
| You want a visible looped reverse or a cleaner sweatshirt-knit look. | French terry. | Weight, loopback construction, hand feel, usable width, and matching trim. |
| You want a brushed interior to be the main sensory feature. | Fleece. | Composition, brushed face/reverse, weight, thickness, stretch, and color. |
| You want a structured, heavyweight hoodie. | Compare heavyweight French terry and heavyweight fleece. | Do not pick by category alone. Compare the exact listed weight and test the hand. |
| You need cuffs and a waistband that recover after wear. | Main fabric plus a compatible rib. | Color, stretch, recovery, width, and whether the listing identifies a companion rib. |
Weight helps, but it does not make the decision by itself
Weight is a comparison tool, not a universal quality score. A higher number can indicate a more substantial fabric, but construction, yarn, finish, width, and the garment pattern also change the result. If you are deciding between a French terry and a fleece, compare the listed facts on those two specific options. If hand feel matters, use a sample or a small retail cut before placing a larger order.
KBM’s Terry & Fleece collection lets you browse current French terry and fleece options together. Use its filters to narrow by intended use, fiber, weight, width, or stretch, then open the product page before buying.
Plan the trim before you buy the body fabric
A hoodie usually asks the body fabric to do one job and the cuffs, waistband, and sometimes neck finish to do another. A rib knit can be more appropriate for those finishing areas because it is intended to stretch and return. Do not assume a fabric is a match just because it has a similar color name. Look for an identified companion option, compare samples together in the same light, and test the stretch and recovery that your pattern needs.
For a specific path, the Ribbing collection includes 1x1, 2x2, and wider rib constructions. The separate guide How to Match Ribbing to Knit Fabric walks through what to compare.
Retail development and production are different decisions
Retail fabric is available by the yard, which makes it useful for comparing materials, sewing a first garment, or checking a pattern. For production, wholesale begins at one full roll and roll yardage varies by fabric. A production inquiry is strongest when it names the fabric or fabric direction, color, garment, and rough quantity rather than relying on a category label.
Questions makers ask
Is French terry automatically lighter than fleece?
No. Construction and weight vary by individual fabric. Compare the actual product details and the feel of the specific options you are considering.
Can I use French terry for a hoodie?
Yes. French terry is commonly used for hoodies, crewnecks, joggers, and related sweatshirt projects. Choose it because its construction and listed characteristics fit the garment you want to make.
Should I use self-fabric for cuffs?
That depends on the pattern and finish you want. If the cuff or waistband needs stretch and recovery, compare a compatible rib rather than assuming the body fabric will give the same result.
What is the next step if I am unsure?
Choose two or three exact options from the Terry & Fleece collection, record the name and color, and compare them in a retail sample or small development order before committing to production.