You want to make hoodies. Cool. But "hoodie fabric" isn't a thing — it's like saying "shoe material." There are options, and the one you pick changes everything about the final product.
Here are the three main fabrics people use for hoodies, what they're actually like, and when to use each one.
French terry
French terry has a smooth face and little loops on the back. It's lighter than fleece, more breathable, and has a cleaner drape. Most premium streetwear brands use French terry for their lighter hoodies.
Best for: spring/fall hoodies, fashion-forward cuts, lighter weight pieces. If you want that relaxed LA vibe where the hoodie looks good but doesn't make you sweat the second you walk inside — French terry.
Weight range: 280-400 GSM. Our 350 GSM French terry is the sweet spot for hoodies that feel substantial without being heavy.
Fleece
Fleece has a smooth face and a fuzzy, brushed back. It's warmer than French terry, softer on the inside, and what most people think of when they picture a classic hoodie.
Best for: winter hoodies, cozy pieces, anything where warmth is the priority. That inside-of-a-blanket feeling? That's fleece.
Weight range: 300-450 GSM. Heavier fleece (400+ GSM) gives you that thick, oversized hoodie feel that's been trending hard.
Heavyweight jersey
This one's less common for hoodies but gaining traction. Heavyweight jersey (250+ GSM) gives you a dense, structured feel with no texture difference between the front and back. Think of it like a thick t-shirt material scaled up.
Best for: minimal, structured hoodies. Brands going for a clean, almost architectural look. Less cozy, more fashion.
What about cotton vs. poly blends?
100% cotton French terry or fleece will feel more natural, breathe better, and take dye beautifully. But it'll shrink more on first wash and might pill over time.
A cotton/poly blend (usually 80/20 or 70/30) shrinks less, pills less, and holds its shape through more washes. The trade-off is it won't feel as premium against the skin.
Our take: if you're doing small-batch or premium, go 100% cotton. If you're doing volume and need consistency wash after wash, a blend makes sense.
The GSM question
For hoodies specifically, you want at least 300 GSM. Anything lighter and it'll feel like a long-sleeve tee with a hood stapled on. The sweet spot for most streetwear hoodies is 350-420 GSM. Above 450 and you're in blanket territory — which some brands are into, but know that's what you're getting.
Not sure which one to try? Order some swatches and feel the difference yourself. Way better than guessing.