Every single fabric you've ever touched falls into one of two categories: knit or woven. That's it. Two camps. And knowing the difference will save you from making some really expensive mistakes.
Woven fabrics
Woven fabric is made by interlacing two sets of threads at right angles — one going up and down (warp), one going side to side (weft). Think of it like a basket weave. The threads lock together and create a stable, structured fabric.
Examples: denim, canvas, poplin, twill, chambray, linen.
Key traits: doesn't stretch (unless it has spandex blended in), holds its shape, frays when you cut it, and you pretty much need a pattern with darts or seams to get it to fit the body.
Knit fabrics
Knit fabric is made by looping threads together — like how you'd knit a scarf, but on an industrial machine. Those interlocking loops give knits their natural stretch.
Examples: jersey, French terry, rib knit, interlock, ponte, fleece.
Key traits: stretches (2-way or 4-way depending on the knit), recovers back to shape, doesn't fray as easily, drapes differently. T-shirts, hoodies, joggers, leggings — all knits.
Why this matters for your project
You can't swap a knit for a woven and expect the same result. A pattern designed for jersey won't work with canvas. The stretch, the drape, the way it behaves on a sewing machine — totally different.
Quick rules:
- Making a structured jacket or bag? You probably want a woven.
- Making a hoodie, tee, or anything with stretch? You need a knit.
- Want something that moves with the body? Knit.
- Want something that holds a crisp shape? Woven.
If you're starting a clothing brand and you're mostly doing streetwear, loungewear, or athletic stuff — you're going to be living in the knit world. That's our specialty at KBM. We've been cutting and selling knits in LA for 40 years.
One more thing
You'll also hear the terms "jersey" and "interlock" thrown around. Jersey is a single knit (one smooth side, one textured side). Interlock is a double knit (smooth on both sides, thicker, more stable). Both are knits. Both stretch. But interlock is a bit more structured and doesn't curl at the edges like jersey does.
If you're new to sewing knits, start with interlock or ponte. They're way more forgiving than jersey.