French terry is the workhorse of every streetwear closet. Hoodies, crews, joggers, premium tees, that thick blanket-y feel inside your favorite sweatshirt. All French terry. The thing is, "French terry" covers a huge range of weights and weaves, and the wrong pick will make your sample look saggy, scratchy, or just off. This is the maker's guide we wish existed when we started.
We move a lot of French terry at KBM (it's our top selling fabric category), so this is the breakdown we give to brands and home sewers every week.
What is French terry, actually?
French terry is a knit fabric with a smooth flat face on the outside and unbrushed loops on the inside. Think hoodie interior before they go fuzzy. Those loops are what make it soft, breathable, and slightly stretchy without spandex. It absorbs moisture, it drapes nicely, and unlike fleece it stays breathable enough to wear year round.
If you brush those loops, you get fleece. If you leave them, you get classic terry. Same family, very different feel.
French terry by weight (the GSM map)
Weight (GSM, grams per square meter) is the single biggest variable in how a French terry will feel and behave. Here's the real-world breakdown.
Light: 180 to 260 GSM
Thin, drapey, almost t-shirt territory. Good for summer crews, layering pieces, soft loungewear, and that beachy oversized tee look. Not great for hoodies because it'll lose structure once you add a hood and pockets.
Medium: 280 to 380 GSM
The sweet spot for most cut and sew brands. Substantial enough to feel like a real garment, light enough to wear in fall and spring. Great for everyday hoodies, joggers, light crews, and zip ups.
Heavy: 400 to 500 GSM
This is where premium streetwear lives. 450 GSM is our best seller for a reason. It hangs like a dream, holds prints crisp, and feels expensive in the hand. Hoodies and sweatpants made from 450 GSM French terry sell because they feel like a $200 piece even when the brand is brand new.
Super heavy: 550 to 650+ GSM
Flagship territory. This is what flagship pieces are built from. Heavyweight gym sweats, statement hoodies, that "I paid too much for this" feel. It sews thicker, takes longer to dry, and absolutely will not be mistaken for fast fashion.
Loopback vs brushed vs double-sided
Three terms you'll see thrown around. Here's the plain English version.
Loopback French terry is the classic version. Flat smooth face, loops on the back, no brushing. Most premium streetwear uses loopback because the unbrushed loops keep their shape over many washes and the surface stays clean for printing.
Brushed French terry is what happens when those back loops get mechanically brushed into a soft fuzzy interior. Technically that crosses into fleece territory, but a lot of mills still label it French terry. Warmer, less breathable, more cozy.
Double-sided (or double face) French terry has loops on BOTH sides. No "wrong side". Great for reversible pieces, blanket throws, anything where you don't want a smooth back.
What makes a French terry actually good
The label says 100% cotton, 450 GSM, and you're sold right? Not so fast. Here's what separates the premium stuff from the mid stuff.
Long staple cotton. Longer fibers spin into smoother stronger yarn, which means a softer surface and way less pilling after a few washes. Mid-grade French terry pills like crazy by month two.
Tight loops. Cheap French terry has loose floppy loops on the back. Premium French terry has tight uniform loops that don't snag or pull when you sew through them.
Stable knit gauge. A wobbly inconsistent knit means your patterns won't line up across panels. Look for even rows on both face and back.
Matching rib. Real streetwear brands need cuff and waistband rib that matches the body fabric. We stock our French terry with matching ribbing because trying to source rib separately after the fact is a nightmare. Order swatches and you can feel the difference in 30 seconds.
Best uses by weight
Quick cheat sheet for matching weight to garment.
Lightweight crews and oversized tees: 180 to 260 GSM. You want drape, not structure.
Joggers and sweatpants for summer: 280 to 350 GSM. Comfortable to wear when it's warm, holds shape when you sit.
Year round hoodies: 350 to 450 GSM. Heavy enough to feel premium, not so heavy you can't wear it indoors.
Premium hoodies and sweatpants: 450 to 550 GSM. This is the sweet spot for brands trying to feel elevated without going into novelty territory.
Statement pieces and flagship drops: 600+ GSM. Use sparingly, charge accordingly.
Loungewear and reversible pieces: double-sided French terry, 280 to 380 GSM. Soft on both sides, looks intentional whichever way it lays.
Caring for French terry
French terry is forgiving but a few rules help your garments last.
Wash cold and inside out. Hot water shrinks cotton and fades dye. Inside out protects the smooth face from rubbing against zippers and buttons in the wash.
Tumble dry low or hang dry. High heat will shrink it, especially if it isn't sanforized. If you're cutting and sewing for a brand, pre-wash your fabric once before cutting so any shrinkage happens before the customer gets it.
Skip fabric softener. It builds up in the loops and kills the absorbency over time. A scoop of detergent and you're good.
How to pick the right French terry for your project
If you take one thing from this guide: order swatches before you commit. Looking at French terry on a screen tells you nothing about how it actually drapes or how the loops feel. We sell a swatch pack for exactly this reason. Order it, hang the swatches, fold them, see how they catch the light, and then commit to yards.
If you're running production and need 50+ yards of one color, hit our wholesale page for pricing. Most of our 450 GSM French terry colors come with matching jersey and rib, so you can build a full collection without sourcing trims separately.
Made in LA, shipped USPS in 1 to 3 business days. Questions about a specific weight or color? Reach out. We're makers too.